Pattern Review ~ One Hot Skirt

on May 21 | in Sewing Inspiration | by | with 8 Comments

From Beth: Linda said she was thrilled to do this pattern review because her summer “uniform” is a skirt with a cute top! She’s written the fantastic and comprehensive review below and adds that the pattern gives permission to make multiple skirts as long as the company is given credit; this is nice for people who enjoy making items to sell. For more about Linda be sure to read her introduction and her blog, Whatever Is On My Mind Today.

Pattern
One Hot Skirt by Betsy Ross
Description
A simple, A-line skirt with front/back facings, darts, and side zipper.
Materials
For the first skirt, I used a stretch woven picked up from a local manufacturer that periodically sells their fabrics (Canvasbacks). For the second skirt I used two quilting cottons bought from a local quilt shop (Dovely Quilts). I only needed 1.375 yards of 60″ fabric to make my knee length skirt. I needed 1.625 yards of 45″ wide fabric. If you refold your fabric so that you only double the width of your skirt, you will have some nice largish pieces leftover that you can use for bags or any little crafty item.
POHSskirt2
Overall Design 5 stars
This is a classic design. It is a simple skirt, yet not shapeless, and would be good for beginners as well as advanced seamstresses. The possibilities are endless when it comes to jazzing this skirt up. One could add a little ruffle to the bottom, a contrast band, a flounce, lace, tulle, etc. (Threads Magazine #124 has some good instructions for fancy skirt hems). Construction time is quick (I had this made up in an afternoon, including some re-fitting, and ‘help’ from my 2 year old).
Written Instructions 5 stars
The instructions are excellent. A bit on the ‘chatty, have a cup of tea’ side, which isn’t my thing, but excellent, nonetheless. I really liked seeing the recommendation to interface the area where the zipper goes in. This gives a bit more stability to zipper, and I rarely see it in regular instructions. There are also nice little tidbits like to mark the front of the skirt from the back, so you don’t get confused (they easily look the same!).
Diagrams / Images 5 stars
Hand drawn sketches.
Pattern Pieces 5 stars
There are 4 pieces to this skirt: front, back, front facing, back facing, all cut on a fold. The pattern is printed in black on regular paper (not tissue), and tracing my size off was easy (I use Swedish Tracing Paper).
Overall Level of Difficulty Advanced Beginner
I’m going to say Advanced Beginner because of the lapped zipper. While I certainly think someone who is an absolute beginner could make this skirt, you might like to have a garment or two under your belt before this one.
Tips
As always, prewash your fabrics and press as you sew. It really helps you to get a professional result. When attaching the facings to the zipper, I prickstitch them down, instead of slipstitching. This will
prevent the facing from rolling and possibly getting caught in the zipper. I do this for linings as well, or any time I need to attach some fabric to a zipper.
I prickstitch like this:

POHSprickstitch
It looks like this when finished:

POHSfacing
Also, if you don’t want any stitching showing on the outside of your skirt at the waist (recommended to hold down the facing) you can understitch it. Trim and clip the seam, then roll the seam allowance
toward the facing, edgestitching it in place:

POHSunderstitching
It’ll look like this when finished:

POHSskirttop
Modifications:
I started off with a size E, as my waist measures 31″. After getting the first skirt made up, it was too big, and I also felt the darts were too short (they pooched out weird). I took the skirt in to a size D at the waist, and lengthened the darts 1.25 inches. I also took out a bit of the flare (tapering down to a size B or C at the hem), as it looked better that way on me. I shortened the skirt 3 inches (I’m 5’2″, and a skirt just below my knee looks dorky). I also inserted an invisible zipper instead of the lapped one in the directions. I like the look of invisible zips better. Some excellent instructions for inserting an invisible zip can be found here.
My skirt zips look like this:

POHSinvisiblezips
For my second skirt, I bound the hem with a contrast fabric. If you’ve ever bound a quilt, this technique will look familiar. I like to also use it on necklines, instead of facings (see my how to for this). This coordinate happens to be printed on the diagonal, so I cut straight grain strips. Bias cut strips would work as well.
First I cut my skirt to the finished length. Then you cut your strips 6 times the desired width of your finished binding, plus 1/4″. I wanted a 1/2″ binding, so I cut my strips 3.25″.

POHSbinding1-1
Next, stitch your binding to the Right side of the skirt hem, with your desired width as the seam allowance. I’m using 1/2″:

POHSbinding2-1
I start and stop a few inches from one side seam. Then I mark each end with the seamline (the pins), and stitch. Finger press the seam open:

POHSbinding3-1
Finish stitching the binding to the hem:

POHSbinding4-1
Press the binding away from the skirt:

POHSbinding5-1
Wrap the binding around the skirt, and pin from the right side:

POHSbinding6-1
Now stitch-in-the-ditch, and you are done!

POHSstitchingbinding
The finished hem, right and wrong sides:

POHSbinding7-1

Fabric Recommendations:
This skirt will look fabulous in many fabrics. I chose a regular cotton and a stretch woven that is a bit heavier. I think it would look fantastic in chiffon, double or triple layered, with the topmost layer a half inch shorter than next, with a contrast rolled hem (if one has a serger… if not, a baby hem). Other fabrics recommended are linen and rayon. Pretty much any fabric with a bit of drape will work.
Conclusion:
A very versatile pattern that makes up very quickly. Make a few today!
POHSskirt3

[tags]sewing pattern review, skirt pattern review, One Hot Skirt pattern, Betsy Ross pattern review[/tags]

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8 Responses to Pattern Review ~ One Hot Skirt

  1. Ruth says:

    Very nice, Linda! I love everything you sew.

  2. MéLisa says:

    Oh I love your skirts! I love seeing more of these Indy pattern companies getting more exposure! I will need to check these out!

  3. Tami says:

    I am loving the look of this skirt. It’s very simple (look wise). Something I could throw a tank and sandals with or touch it up a bit and put a sweater and heels on. Thanks for the review

  4. Sarah says:

    I love your hem binding, that is a clever, cute and easy way to finish a skirt.

  5. Meghan says:

    Thanks for the review. I have one of Betsy Ross’ blouse patterns waiting for me to give it a try. I love that a small, independent company is producing interesting patterns.

  6. beki says:

    Excellent review, Linda!

  7. meg says:

    What a great review, Linda! I appreciate all of the extra little tips.

  8. Anna says:

    I made a load of these skirts last summer for myself and lived in them, they were so comfortable (won’t fit this year as I’m pregnant!). I found that following the directions my zips always came out on the left hand side and I always thought it should be on the right, not sure if that was he pattern or me though!

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