From Beth: Kayleen from FlourClothing makes absolutely beautiful, classic clothing. She specializes in unique clothing for children but also makes wonderful clothes for herself, in addition to bags and more. Enjoy her blog and Kayleen’s Pleated Collar Tutorial below. A fun collar is a great way to add variety to a favorite top pattern.

Creating a pattern for your collar
This particular collar looks best when attached to a blouse or dress that contains a placket.

Step 1: After you have the basic neckline of your piece constructed, you’ll need to measure from one end of the placket to the other. *Note: You’ll get a more accurate measurement if you stand your measuring tape up and let it curve.

Step 2: Add the neckline amount + 4 inches + seam allowances = your collar length. (example: 25in. + 4in. + 5/8in(2) = 30 1/4in.)

Trace and cut out the pattern for your collar with a 3in. width. (the example’s final measurement would be 30 1/4in. X 3in.)

Step 3: Place the collar’s pattern on the fold of the fabric’s bias and cut out.

Cut out the collar’s interfacing.

Constructing the collar

Step 4: Apply interfacing to one half of the collar. This will be the topside and the other half of the collar will be the underside. Turn down the topside’s edge 5/8 of an inch. Press.

Step 5: Fold collar in half where the interfacing ends. Press.

Step 6: With right sides together, sew the ends of the collar closed.

Start with a 5/8 in seam and curve the fabric as you get to the end to create a rounded corner. Trim seam allowance, turn right side out and press.

Attaching the collar

Step 7: Mark with a pin 3-4 inches from the shoulder seam to the front on both sides of the garment and mark the very middle of the back.

Step 8: Pin the collar’s underside to the garment, right sides together. Create a ½in. pleat at the 4in. mark and a 1in. pleat at the middle of the back.

Baste and sew. Trim and press seam allowance towards collar.

Step 9: Pin the topside of collar in place, creating pleats on top of underside’s pleats.

Baste and stitch in the ditch, making sure the topside catches.

All Done!


*The middle collar was created with a 4 ½ in. width on the fold, for a more dramatic neckline.