Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along ~ Making, Attaching & Finishing the Collar

on September 8 | in Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along, Products, Sew-Alongs | by | with 61 Comments

Amanda from sasikirana handmade joins us today to walk us through making, attaching and finishing the Jump Rope Dress collar!

How is everyone doing this morning? Are you eager to get right on the collar after finishing your plackets? Well, let’s get right to it!

Today, we will be:

  • Sewing the shoulder seams
  • Preparing and making the collar
  • Attaching the collar
  • Finishing the collar

Shoulder Seams
Sew staystiching at the neck edges 3/8″ from the edge. Start at the shoulder edge going down to the center back neck or neck edge. This will make sure that the neck will not stretch when you’re attaching the collar.

For the the straight shoulder seams, we could do it with French seams to give it a clean finish. There are excellent tutorials here and here. Press seam allowances on both shoulder towards the back.

Collar Prep and Assembly

After sewing the 1/2″ guide to fold the lower collar and before pressing the fold, clip into the seams allowance every inch or so to make it easier for you to fold it. Finger press it first to make a smooth curve then press with your iron.

Trim the collar interfacing seam allowance by 1/2″ and attach it to the other collar piece (the under collar).

Draw the seam lines on the upper collar using your ruler as a guide. I like to do mine in small bits and then smooth it out by hand.

Pin them both together and sew right on the seam lines. It would help if you shorten the stitch length and lift the foot presser every few stitch with the needle down to readjust the position of the collar to get a smooth curve on the corners.

Turn the collar right side out and finger press the edges before pressing it. Admire your collar! Soon it will be turned from a flat object to a beautiful three-dimensional object. I am always amazed at this transformation.

Collar Attachment
Match the side edges of the collar to the edges of the placket and pin.

Make sure that this edge lines up perfectly because you see it clearly after it’s finished. Match all the other notches and pin. You will have four quadrants of the neck divided by the pins, left front, left back, right back, and right front.

We will work on one quadrant at a time to make it easier. Position the quadrant that you’re working on so that the body lies on your four fingers and the collar is on the top. Make it curve with your hand so it will stretch lightly (here’s where that stay stitch come in handy!). Match the collar to the neck line and pinch it with your thumb right in between the two pins. Don’t let it go until you insert an actual pin. There, one curve down and three more to go! Do the same with the other quadrants.

Now you can certainly just go at it with your machine, but I like to take my time and do some hand basting to make sure sewing the collar is a one time deal. Trust me, I used to make fun of hand basting and after so many puckers and wrinkles on just one collar, I am a convert.

Use a different color thread than the one you’re currently using. A basting seam is just plain old running seams but longer. I did mine at about 1/4″ long.

There’s no need to make a knot in the beginning or end. To start, take a few stitches in the opposite direction of the way you actually want to sew. Then turn back and sew in the right direction. You begin from one of the placket edges and end at the other edge.

Finish your basting by taking a few stitches in the opposite direction of the way you just sewed, like you did in the beginning. Remove the pins after you pass them, not before, just for extra insurance.

After the basting is finished, check the collar from both sides. If you are satisfied with the result, sew the actual seam with your machine with the collar facing up. Sew slowly and always check your seam on both sides every inch or so. Lift up the presser feet with the needle in down position. Distribute the fullness of the neckline edges by moving it to the back of your needle when you lift up your presser. You only have to worry about what’s immediately in front of your needle; it has to be completely smooth to avoid puckers.

When you are finished, check again for puckers. If you do see puckers, unpick the stitches on those parts and sew it from the other side (body side up). Make sure you pin the upper collar out of the way to avoid sewing it. After you are satisfied, remove the basting stitches. You just sewed a collar, yay!

Finishing the Collar
Press the seam allowance towards the collar.

Trim the seam allowance just above the staystitching. Now you have two options to finish the insides of the collar– With some more hand stiching to give it an invisible finish, or you can edge stitch the whole collar for a fast finish. Or you could do both of them if you are so inclined!

To hand stitch the collar, take small stitches just inside of the collar seam. That way you will be sure that you can’t see your stitches from the outside.

As you can see from the photos, I chose to do mine with both options. I edge stitch my collar with a 1/8″ allowance; if I do it without the hand stitching, the seam allowance would not be caught in the edge stitching. If you want to do just the edge stitching, be sure to do it very close to the edges to make sure the trimmed seam allowance will also be sewn.

Now flip the collar to the right side and give it light press. You’ve finished the body of the dress!

* Win a new Oliver + S sewing pattern of your choice, courtesy of Oliver + S. (4 winners, See the selection at Sew,Mama,Sew! & Badskirt.)

* Win a pack of 12 fat quarters from the new City Weekend fabric collection by Liesl Gibson for Moda, courtesy of Sew,Mama,Sew! (3 winners)

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61 Responses to Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along ~ Making, Attaching & Finishing the Collar

  1. Jennifer P says:

    Oh thank you SO much for this tutorial! I would’ve TOTALLY messed this up without this. I started the Sew-Along over about a week late because I was late in ordering my pattern (oops!), but I look forward to completing it (hopefully) tomorrow. This is my first time sewing a placket, collar, sleeves, so it’s been a real learning experience. Thanks again for the great tutorial.

  2. Amanda says:

    This is a lot of fun, and I love this dress!

  3. Cricket says:

    Ugh. Wish I hadn’t read through this so fast before I started. I hand basted my collar two different times and still, *still* it didn’t line up exactly at the ends. Pin the ends first. Pin the ends first. I’m pretty sure I’ve got it now and won’t forget it.

  4. Liz says:

    I will certainly be buying this pattern once my skills have improved, this is very helpful!

  5. These are great instructions!

  6. Jennifer says:

    I’m so behind! Gotta work to catch up! :c)

  7. Karrie says:

    Good to know that hand-basting is so worthwhile. Still waiting for my pattern in the mail, but I’m so thankful for these tutorials – You ladies are AWESOME!

  8. jodi says:

    Thanks so much for this tutorial! I’m inpsired!

  9. Tong says:

    I always thought collars are tricky, you made it look sooo easy!

  10. Great tutorial!

  11. jennifer w. says:

    this is so helpful. since i am in the process of teaching myself to sew, it’s nice to see so many pictures 🙂

  12. Julie Hickey says:

    You make it look so easy… I think I know what I will be making next weekend 🙂

  13. Louise says:

    These tutorials are so clear, thanks so much 🙂

  14. Annie says:

    This makes collars look so much less intimidating! Not participating in the sew along, but I’m definitely bookmarking this post for future reference! Thanks!

  15. Laura says:

    I can’t wait to see all the finished dresses!

  16. Tara says:

    I certainly don’t mind hand sewing. These are great instructions, thanks!

  17. Serena says:

    I love collars, but I’ve almost given up on them. I feel like I’m doing something wrong every time. This one turned out perfectly, though. 🙂

  18. Jill B says:

    Thanks for such detailed instructions.

  19. Ann says:

    These instructions are very clear and helpful. Thank-you!

  20. Jessica says:

    I personally LOVE hand sewing!

  21. Kelli says:

    I can’t wait till my pattern comes in…I procrastinated and am now behind before I begin, but still. I can’t wait to try a collar with these great instructions!

  22. Tammy says:

    Ok, I thought I could get away without the hand basting…Well, after picking out 4-5 puckers and sewing again…I will not skip this on my next dress. THANK YOU for this great tip that I chose to ignore…The time I spent redoing it was probably the time I would have spent hand basting and would have avoided the frustration!

  23. Jennifer says:

    Collars are also on my list of things I’m afraid of sewing…

  24. Samantha says:

    Great instructions! I especially like that you included the hand basting. For so long I resisted that step and would have to unpick and resew. How silly! Just hand-baste it already! 🙂

  25. Fran says:

    Very thorough directions…thanks !

  26. Paloma says:

    Oh thank you! This is great. I’ve been avoiding starting the sketchbook shirt in part because of the collar but this looks very clear and doable. Can’t wait to see how your dress turns out what a fun choice of fabrics!

  27. katieska says:

    A collar! I’m tempted to attempt one again. Thanks for the great tutorial.

  28. Justine says:

    Thanks Amanda!! Finished sewing collar on – (almost) perfect first go! No puckers!! Hooray!!!! 🙂

  29. Justine says:

    Just pinned my collar on – going back downstairs to tack it on now! Hope this works 🙂 – I liked the explaination for placing in the pins. (I made a sketchbook shirt last week & was not happy with my collar! 2nd time = better, I hope!)

  30. Colleen Butler says:

    Thank you for the tutuorial. I will try the hand basting if it helps get rid of the puckers!

  31. Donna says:

    I’ve always tried to just wing the few collars I’ve sewn, and they never turned out very well so I stopped sewing clothes that had them. The technique you illustrated is nothing like what I was doing, no wonder my collars turned out poorly! Thanks so much for the clear instructions and I’m ready to add a new skill to my repertoire!

  32. Kris says:

    Thanks! I need to attach a collar to a dress, and I’m definitely going to try out this method!

  33. Trisha says:

    Thanks for the great pictures!! I can’t wait to get caught up tomorrow and post my pictures 🙂

  34. Jennifer Lachman says:

    I never knew how to do a french seam before. The tutorial was so helpful. I will practice a few times on scrap fabric before I do it on the actual dress.

  35. Kimberly says:

    Thank you for so much helpful information!

  36. Rachel says:

    I can NOT believe I just attached a freaking collar. If my kids weren’t asleep I’d be squealing! Thank you!

  37. Rose L says:

    My goodness, that looks like a challenge for me to work up to! The tutorial makes it all very clear, but I’m still a bit intimidated…

  38. Rachel says:

    I’ve never done a collar that wasn’t fleece before. I can’t wait to try it.

  39. Micmacker says:

    I make clothes with collars. I struggle with collars. I have shed tears over collars (well, A tear). This pictorial/tutorial is GREAT!! Thanks for all the work you put into this.

  40. Kristin says:

    Oh, I love this pattern so much. Do you think it would look bad on one of my sons?! 🙂

  41. Rebecca says:

    lovely fabric choice and marvelously detailed instructions. This is a great sew-along!

  42. Sara says:

    Handbasting, huh? I need to remember to be a slower sewer to save myself grief later. Thanks!

  43. craftyNHmom says:

    I would love to win one of their patterns! I’ve heard they are great.


  44. mamabird says:

    This actually makes the idea of sewing a collar not so scary!

  45. empirewaist says:

    Wow, this sew-along is so awesome! I’m still a beginner, so these tutorials are invaluable. Thank you!!!

  46. Tara says:

    How does this look so clear? Thanks!

  47. Kim Floyd says:

    I think you just converted me to a hand baster as well It worked so much easier no ripping and resewing

  48. Erica says:

    I love the idea of handbasting! I am sooo going to do that!

  49. karen says:

    Thanks so much! This dress will be such a fun addition to my 6 year old’s fall wardrobe!

  50. Rita says:

    Oh, I’m a sucker for Oliver + S right now.

  51. alisha says:

    Collars have always scared me, but this definitely seems managable!

  52. mel says:

    This is great. It feels like a huge achievement when you finish the body!

  53. Marcia W. says:

    Thanks for the good instructions.

  54. Jenn S says:

    Isn’t it ingenious how collars are attatched? I tinking with piping around the edge of my color, the wool on the top, and the accent fabric on the bottom side of the collar.

    Being in the sew a long, I’m sewing soooooo much slower on a project that I normally complete in an afternoon, which is giving me the oportunity to be more creative and try new things.

    <3 this!

  55. Mary Read says:

    I love Oliver + S. Thanks for the sewalong!

  56. Shirley Clark says:

    These are great tutorials. I wasn’t able to participate in the sew-along, but I can sure use these instructions.

  57. jana says:

    Collars are scary!

  58. Tammy says:

    Great tips!

  59. Sarah says:

    Such a cute dress, and great hints on the collar!

  60. Amanda says:

    I never thought I’d be able to sew something like this, but with these tutorials, i just may!

  61. Ruth Fidino says:

    Very clear directions!

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