Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along ~ Placket Markings & Creation

on September 7 | in Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along, Products, Sew-Alongs | by | with 53 Comments

Find the complete sew-along calendar, with Jump Rope Dress pattern notes here. Then move onto Tracing Your Pattern & Cutting Your Fabric. Amy from Badskirt is back today with instructions for the Jump Rope Dress Placket!

Creating the Placket

    To create the placket, we are going to:

  • Trace the placket markings
  • Add interfacing to the left and right placket
  • Align and attach the placket to the bodice
  • Prepare the placket pieces
  • Sew the right placket
  • Sew the left placket
  • Finish the placket details

Trace the Placket Markings
Locate the placket markings
Find the placket markings for the bodice on the pattern sheet. They are in the center of the page. If you haven’t already, trace or photocopy them for use. You will be cutting them and poking a hole in them, so make sure you make a copy instead of working with your original pattern.

Align and trace the front bodice placket markings
Trim your placket markings as shown. Cut along the neckline and snip the notches indicated. Using a sewing pin, poke holes in each of the large dots indicated in the on the placket markings. These holes will be used to transfer marking locations to your fabric.

Align the neckline of the placket markings with the right side of the front bodice fabric by matching the notches. Carefully check that the center line of the placket markings is straight along the centreline of your bodice.

Using an air erasable fabric marker or tailor’s chalk, mark the dots of the placket markings onto the front bodice.

Using a straight ruler, connect the dots as indicated by the placket marking guides on the pattern sheet.

Align and trace the left and right placket markings
If you haven’t done so already, we need to copy the placket markings from the left and right placket templates onto the fabric. We want to transfer these markings to the wrong side of the placket.

Be sure to copy all marking dots, fold lines and button placements.

Tack the button markings
If you are using a disappearing fabric marker to tailor’s chalk that may rub off over the course of the sew along, it is a good idea to tack the location of the buttons and button holes with thread. Adding the buttons and button holes are the final stages of Jump Rope Dress creation. I have loosely basted the button holes and buttons with thread to indicate their placement in the final steps of dress. Tip: Keep your thread knots of the right side of the fabric so that you can remove them later.

Add Interfacing to the Left & Right Placket
Please note that in the directions, left placket refers to the placket on your left, which is the wearer’s right. This will be the outer placket piece with the triangle point at the bottom. To avoid confusion, I will refer to them using them as left/outer placket and right/inner placket.

Interfacing adds stability to fabric. In addition to adding a bit of rigidity, it prevents the fabric from ripping from stress around the buttons and buttonholes. There are a number of types of interfacing available on the market ranging from very lightweight to extremely durable. It is important to choose an interfacing appropriate for your fabric and project. Bags usually require a durable heavy interfacing for thickness. Garment interfacing needs vary by project and fabric. If you are using quilting weight cotton similar, a lightweight fusible interfacing is best to use for the Jump Rope Dress. For more information on interfacing, you can read Amy Butler’s Guide to Interfacing on Sew,Mama,Sew!

To attach the interfacing, begin by pressing your left and right placket pieces and ensure they are free of wrinkles. Cut a 1” strip of interfacing and iron it to the wrong side of your plackets as directed. It’s important to make sure there are no creases or bubbles in your fabric at this stage so check it carefully.

Align & Attach the Placket to the Bodice
With right sides facing, align the left and right placket to the front bodice. Match up the marking dots as carefully as possible.

Using a standard length stitch, sew directly on the marked line of the plackets as directed. Be sure to sew to the lower dot on the left/outer placket. Reinforce your sewing at the beginning and end of each seam.

Prepare the Placket Pieces
Pin back the placket edges and cut along the markings as indicated in the pattern directions.

Press the edges of the left/outer and right/inner placket as indicated by the pattern directions. The edge of your interfacing should align with fold line along the sides of both plackets.

Tip: To get a cleaner finish with less raw edges exposed, you can mitre the corner of the right/inner placket. To do so, first fold over the corner at a 45 degree angle.

Then fold in the sides.

This technique is useful whenever you need a clean corner construction in sewing.

Sew the Right/Inner Placket
Fold and sew the right/inner placket
The next few steps will feel a bit like fabric origami, but the result gives a tidy finished inner placket.

Press open the right/inner placket along the sewn line.

Fold the right/inner placket back onto itself at the center as directed. Your interfacing should provide you a guide to the correct place to fold.

Sew the top edge of the right/inner placket with a ½” seam. This should be directly along your interfacing, stopping at the marked dot. Trim away the excess fabric and notch as directed. When you are finished, you will have a small notch cut out of the fabric.

Edgestitch the right placket
Turn the right/inner placket right side out. Use a chopstick or fabric turner to gently push out the corner.

Edgestitch around the bottom and side of the placket. Do not edgestitch at the top or inner edge.

Sew the Left/Outer Placket
Fold and sew the left/outer placket
To move onto the outer placket, repeat the folding process as you did with the right/inner placket. Repeat the process up to turning the left placket right side out.

Adjust the point of the left/outer placket
At this stage, spend a bit of time fiddling with the point on the left placket to make sure it is a crisp, centered point. You may need to fold and iron it a few times to get it correct. Tip: Using spray starch at this stage will help ensure the placket retains the desired shape while you sew.

Create a stitching guide line
Measure roughly 1 ½” up from the point of the placket to create a stitching guideline. This line will be where the right/inner and left/outer plackets are sewn together. This line will define the small pentagon at the base of the placket. You find this pentagon detail in most garments at the neck.

Beginning at the stitching guideline, edgestitch around the left/outer placket as shown in the directions.

Finish the Placket
Carefully sandwich the placket together. Check from both the front and back to make sure there are no raw edges exposed then edgestitch around the triangle.

And we’re now finished with the placket construction. Tomorrow, Amanda is going to talk us through collar prep and attachment.


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53 Responses to Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along ~ Placket Markings & Creation

  1. Jennifer P says:

    Thank you, thank you, thank you! This was my very first placket, and I’ve only been sewing since March. This tutorial made the process so stress-free.

  2. chelle says:

    Thanks – just getting to the placket. I’ve only sewn one before, and that was with sketchy instructions. So happy to have your walkthrough!

  3. Liz says:

    Great tips!

  4. This dress pattern has all the fun style details to make a great dress.

  5. Melissa Ann says:

    So I cut out the pattern last night and this is super helpful! I was a little scared to get started ;)

  6. Jodie says:

    Brilliant walkthough Amy!

  7. Karrie says:

    The mitred corner tip was AMAZING – I’ve often wondered how people get such fantastic corners and I can never seem to. Wonderful – THANK YOU!!!

  8. anne booth says:

    Okay, just finished the placket! Yay! Not nearly as daunting as it looked. I do think that I may try the lighter weight interfacing next time as the placket is feeling a little stiff for my taste, but hopefully it will soften in the wash…

  9. Tong says:

    Great tutorial! I’m not doing the sew along, but this is so useful for sewing garments in general!

  10. Devon says:

    You make this so much easier than I expected!! Thanks!

  11. anne booth says:

    Thanks so much! I’m a few days behind and just getting to the placket tonight, but I am so grateful for the tips. The pattern instructions are pretty detailed, but it helps so much to see pictures of the step-by-step! I also LOVE the idea of stitch-marking the button placement and holes. Great idea!

  12. Bailey says:

    I once tried a placket…no success. Now with this tutorial I just might try it again! Thank you for helping me continue to grow as a sewer.

  13. Julie Hickey says:

    Amazing tutorial! I have never purchased a pattern for anything with a placket because I just could not figure out who one would do it. Now I know. GREAT pictures. I really, REALLY want to try making this dress now!

  14. Addie says:

    This is a great supplement to the instructions. I am not doing the sew along now but I’m excited to make a garment from this pattern soon.

  15. Java Jane says:

    Not having a young child, I have not been following this Sew Along. But I noticed the comment in Friday’s post about the placket tutorial. I am so glad that I took the time to read this wonderfully detailed entry.

    Thank you, thank you!

    Jane

  16. Thirza says:

    Just finished the plackets! Although they still a bit dodgy on the inside, I am very happy with the outside. I now also know that the reason the plackets didn’t go so well the first time, is that I managed to overlook the extra markings in the middle of the sheet (even after double checking), and I just improvised…

    This was sooooo helpful!!

  17. Ange says:

    Thanks for simplifying this

  18. Tara says:

    Thank you for making such a great tutorial :)

  19. Serena says:

    What a lovely detail this placket is!

  20. Jennifer says:

    I am so scared of making plackets. And buttonholes. The instructions never seem too bad, but they really make me nervous!

  21. Samantha says:

    I really like this placket method. She really makes nice patterns!

  22. This tutorial is really helpful. The photos following each step really help to follow all steps.

  23. gail says:

    Can’t wait to get started on this dress!

  24. Carrie says:

    Plackets always make me a little antsy. Thanks for the detailed walk-through!

  25. Elissa says:

    I’ve done quite a bit of sewing for my daughters. I feel I have learnt so much though with your tips and fine detail instructions. Thanks.

  26. Deb Cameron says:

    What a great placket tutorial, I will refer to this again when I make my first one. Thanks

  27. Justine says:

    Just read through this – going to do placket tonight – wish my computer was next to my machine!

  28. Michele says:

    Love the step-by-step…thanks!

  29. Jenn S says:

    Placket is DONE!

  30. alisha says:

    Great tip on using thread to mark the buttons and button holes!

  31. Jennifer Lachman says:

    I never would have thought to photo copy the placket. What a time saver.

  32. Jill B says:

    Wow! Those are some impressive detailed notes and photos. Thanks!

  33. Marcia W. says:

    Very good instructions.

  34. Karrie S says:

    Thanks for the step-by-step. It is making me get this great pattern out and sew it up. So far so good. Thanks again! As for the question about the pens, I like to use the water soluble pen. It does not become permanent when ironed over.

  35. Kim Floyd says:

    I am so glad to have the photos to go by, I am also glad I read the comments on flickr and am using a lighter fabric instead of the heavear I am using for the rest of the dresx

  36. Mary Margaret says:

    Thank you, Amy! This pictorial has really given me a boost of confidence on the placket construction! Will give it a go later this evening!

  37. Louise says:

    Thanks so much, this is really helpful!

  38. Tammy -

    My fabric markers are put out by our local distributor and are labelled Chako Marker. They are air-erasable, water soluble and heat resistant.

    Because fabrics have different properties, I’d suggest doing a test on scraps of your actual fabric left over from the cutting process before marking your actual garment pieces.

    Hope this helps.
    Amy

  39. Tara says:

    Thanks so much :)

  40. Patty Jakob says:

    Thank you sooo much, I just printed it and that way I have my step by step with images for the placket. I need to get started soon!

    thanks

  41. Trisha says:

    Thanks for such great detailed intstructions. I am still in the process of cutting everything out. But I have Thursday off and am going to get caught up then.

  42. Cricket says:

    I’m really glad you just walked me through that, because just reading through it makes my head spin. That’s what I love about oliver & s, though. I am always learning a new skill and ending up with a darn cute end product.

  43. Melissa says:

    Still waiting on my pattern to arrive but looking forward to catching up once it does!

  44. corinne says:

    thanks for the help! very useful with all the photos!

  45. Tammy says:

    When you use a vanishing marker, which one do you use? Will the mark be permanent if heat applied?

  46. Fran says:

    Very helpful ! I like the miter
    detail….thanks !

  47. mel says:

    Very good job breaking all this down Amy! I’m looking forward to seeing what you do for the sleeves. I finished mine, but admit I was a little confused.

  48. Sarah S says:

    Nice…I’m still tracing the patterns and cutting out the pieces. Love the detailed walk-through. This is great!

  49. Kristin says:

    so helpful! I haven’t done much apparel sewing so this sew along is really great.

  50. SarahB says:

    Great idea to use thread to mark the buttonholes! Never thought of it before, but that’s the way I’ll have to do it from now on!

  51. Jessica says:

    Thank you for walking us all though step by step of using a pattern. I had been trying a few patterns, and was getting frustrated by it not turnning out the way I wanted. I thought about taking a class. But I think I’ll try to follow the sew along first and see what I can pick up. Thanks again!

  52. Kimberly says:

    I LOVE that mitered corner trick – I will remember that!

  53. Chris says:

    I love this technique for making a placket. Can’t wait to get to mine!

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