Find the complete sew-along calendar, with Jump Rope Dress pattern notes here. Then move onto Tracing Your Pattern & Cutting Your Fabric. Amy from Badskirt is back today with instructions for the Jump Rope Dress Placket!
Creating the Placket
- To create the placket, we are going to:
- Trace the placket markings
- Add interfacing to the left and right placket
- Align and attach the placket to the bodice
- Prepare the placket pieces
- Sew the right placket
- Sew the left placket
- Finish the placket details
Trace the Placket Markings
Locate the placket markings
Find the placket markings for the bodice on the pattern sheet. They are in the center of the page. If you haven’t already, trace or photocopy them for use. You will be cutting them and poking a hole in them, so make sure you make a copy instead of working with your original pattern.
Align and trace the front bodice placket markings
Trim your placket markings as shown. Cut along the neckline and snip the notches indicated. Using a sewing pin, poke holes in each of the large dots indicated in the on the placket markings. These holes will be used to transfer marking locations to your fabric.
Align the neckline of the placket markings with the right side of the front bodice fabric by matching the notches. Carefully check that the center line of the placket markings is straight along the centreline of your bodice.
Using an air erasable fabric marker or tailor’s chalk, mark the dots of the placket markings onto the front bodice.
Using a straight ruler, connect the dots as indicated by the placket marking guides on the pattern sheet.
Align and trace the left and right placket markings
If you haven’t done so already, we need to copy the placket markings from the left and right placket templates onto the fabric. We want to transfer these markings to the wrong side of the placket.
Be sure to copy all marking dots, fold lines and button placements.
Tack the button markings
If you are using a disappearing fabric marker to tailor’s chalk that may rub off over the course of the sew along, it is a good idea to tack the location of the buttons and button holes with thread. Adding the buttons and button holes are the final stages of Jump Rope Dress creation. I have loosely basted the button holes and buttons with thread to indicate their placement in the final steps of dress. Tip: Keep your thread knots of the right side of the fabric so that you can remove them later.
Add Interfacing to the Left & Right Placket
Please note that in the directions, left placket refers to the placket on your left, which is the wearer’s right. This will be the outer placket piece with the triangle point at the bottom. To avoid confusion, I will refer to them using them as left/outer placket and right/inner placket.
Interfacing adds stability to fabric. In addition to adding a bit of rigidity, it prevents the fabric from ripping from stress around the buttons and buttonholes. There are a number of types of interfacing available on the market ranging from very lightweight to extremely durable. It is important to choose an interfacing appropriate for your fabric and project. Bags usually require a durable heavy interfacing for thickness. Garment interfacing needs vary by project and fabric. If you are using quilting weight cotton similar, a lightweight fusible interfacing is best to use for the Jump Rope Dress. For more information on interfacing, you can read Amy Butler’s Guide to Interfacing on Sew,Mama,Sew!
To attach the interfacing, begin by pressing your left and right placket pieces and ensure they are free of wrinkles. Cut a 1” strip of interfacing and iron it to the wrong side of your plackets as directed. It’s important to make sure there are no creases or bubbles in your fabric at this stage so check it carefully.
Align & Attach the Placket to the Bodice
With right sides facing, align the left and right placket to the front bodice. Match up the marking dots as carefully as possible.
Using a standard length stitch, sew directly on the marked line of the plackets as directed. Be sure to sew to the lower dot on the left/outer placket. Reinforce your sewing at the beginning and end of each seam.
Prepare the Placket Pieces
Pin back the placket edges and cut along the markings as indicated in the pattern directions.
Press the edges of the left/outer and right/inner placket as indicated by the pattern directions. The edge of your interfacing should align with fold line along the sides of both plackets.
Tip: To get a cleaner finish with less raw edges exposed, you can mitre the corner of the right/inner placket. To do so, first fold over the corner at a 45 degree angle.
Then fold in the sides.
This technique is useful whenever you need a clean corner construction in sewing.
Sew the Right/Inner Placket
Fold and sew the right/inner placket
The next few steps will feel a bit like fabric origami, but the result gives a tidy finished inner placket.
Press open the right/inner placket along the sewn line.
Fold the right/inner placket back onto itself at the center as directed. Your interfacing should provide you a guide to the correct place to fold.
Sew the top edge of the right/inner placket with a ½” seam. This should be directly along your interfacing, stopping at the marked dot. Trim away the excess fabric and notch as directed. When you are finished, you will have a small notch cut out of the fabric.
Edgestitch the right placket
Turn the right/inner placket right side out. Use a chopstick or fabric turner to gently push out the corner.
Edgestitch around the bottom and side of the placket. Do not edgestitch at the top or inner edge.
Sew the Left/Outer Placket
Fold and sew the left/outer placket
To move onto the outer placket, repeat the folding process as you did with the right/inner placket. Repeat the process up to turning the left placket right side out.
Adjust the point of the left/outer placket
At this stage, spend a bit of time fiddling with the point on the left placket to make sure it is a crisp, centered point. You may need to fold and iron it a few times to get it correct. Tip: Using spray starch at this stage will help ensure the placket retains the desired shape while you sew.
Create a stitching guide line
Measure roughly 1 ½” up from the point of the placket to create a stitching guideline. This line will be where the right/inner and left/outer plackets are sewn together. This line will define the small pentagon at the base of the placket. You find this pentagon detail in most garments at the neck.
Beginning at the stitching guideline, edgestitch around the left/outer placket as shown in the directions.
Finish the Placket
Carefully sandwich the placket together. Check from both the front and back to make sure there are no raw edges exposed then edgestitch around the triangle.
And we’re now finished with the placket construction. Tomorrow, Amanda is going to talk us through collar prep and attachment.
* Win a new Oliver + S sewing pattern of your choice, courtesy of Oliver + S. (4 winners, See the selection at Sew,Mama,Sew! & Badskirt.)
* Win a pack of 12 fat quarters from the new City Weekend fabric collection by Liesl Gibson for Moda, courtesy of Sew,Mama,Sew! (3 winners)
To enter the drawing:
- Comment on any sew-along post on Sew,Mama,Sew! now through September 17.
- Contribute photos to the Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along photo pool now through September 17.
- Comment on Badskirt on September 13.