Today Amy from Badskirt and Amanda from Sasikirana Handmade guide you through prepping the skirt (View A only) and creating pockets (both Views A & B). Did you have time to work on your Jump Rope Dress this past weekend? Don’t forget to comment on any sew-along post for your chance to win an Oliver + S pattern or 12 fat quarters of the City Weekend fabric collection by Liesl Gibson for Moda!
- Jump Rope Dress Sew-Along Posts:
- Sew-Along Calendar, with Jump Rope Dress Pattern Notes
- Tracing Your Pattern & Cutting Your Fabric
- Placket Markings & Creation
- Making, Attaching & Finishing the Collar
- Sleeves & Sleeve Cuffs
- Q & A with Liesl Gibson of Oliver + S
Finished Pocket, View A.
Today we are going to:
- Prep the skirt for View A
- Create and Attach the Pockets for View A
- Create and Attach the Pockets for View B
Prepping the Skirt for View A Only
Locate and Copy the Pocket Markings – View A
First, transfer the pocket markings for the View A skirt onto the front and back fabric panels, if you haven’t already. The markings for the front are indicated by the dark circles. The markings for the back panel are indicated by the light squares. Don’t forget to transfer the markings for both the right and left side of the dress.
Create the Skirt Tube – View A
Using your preferred method, align and pin the two skirt panels together. Like the shoulders, this seam is a good candidate for a French seam or a simple clean finished edge, as shown. Sew both sides resulting in a tube.
Locate the top of your skirt tube by finding the side with the notches.
Next we want to create gathering stitches for both the front and back skirt panel. Just as we did for the sleeves, we’ll using two rows of long basting stitches set at roughly 3/8” and 5/8” apart. The front and back gathering stitches should be created separately beginning at the side seams for each panel. Tip: In addition to changing your bobbin thread to make it easier to identify which threads to pull, I suggest changing the thread colour for the front and back panels. This will make it easier when we attach the skirt onto the bodice.
Set the skirt panel aside for now.
View A Pockets
First, it should be noted that the pointed flap on the pockets is a design feature rather than a functional closure. This distinction is necessary as it defines how the pockets are constructed.
Beginning with right sides facing, sew the pockets as illustrated. Pay special attention to the hint about sewing across the seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/8”. Clip the corners for a tidier result. If needed, also add notches along the corners created by sewing into the seam allowance.
Turn the pocket right side out through the opening and gently poke out the corners and press. Using a fabric marker or tailor’s chalk, draw a line 1” below the outside corners of your pocket as shown in the directions.
Starting just below this line, edgestitch the top section of the pocket. This section is the flap which will not be attached in the next step.
Attaching the Pockets – View A
Align your pocket to the dots and squares indicated on your skirt panel. Your pocket will overlap the side seam approximately 1”. Beginning at the marked line, edgestitch pocket into place. Be sure to reinforce the start and end securely so the pockets do not rip out.
Now, fold over the flap at the drawn line and tack the sides of the flap to the pocket.
Repeat for the other side. Don’t worry about the buttons for now, we will attach them all at once when we cover the placket and sleeve tab buttons.
View B Pockets
For view B pockets, you will need to transfer the pocket placement markings to the right side if the dress. I like to do it with my window light box. First I pin together my pattern piece and the cut body piece. Then I tack it on the window with some masking tape. I trace the marking that can clearly be seen with a water soluble marker.
Now, for the actual pockets you will need to sew some basting stitches and fold the curved seam allowance. Sometimes I find it hard to make a smooth fold on a curved edge, so I like to make my pockets with a lining. To make the pockets this way you will need to cut four pocket pieces instead of two.
To make a pocket, put two pieces with wrong sides together. Sew the curved bottom edge with a ½” seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8”. Turn it right side out and press. Sew gathering stitches as per the instructions, but starting and ending right on the edges, not on the dot.
Press the shorter edges of a pocket bias binding ½” to the wrong side. Open the fold.
Line the edges of the pocket on the folds you just made with wring sides together. Draw the bobbin thread of the gathering stitch and fit it to the bias binding piece. Sew it with ½” seam allowance.
Refold the short edges. Press the top binding piece by ½”. Fold it again to meet the seam and cover the raw edges. Edgestitch close to the fold.
Mark a small triangle on the corners with a water soluble marker. Pin the finished pocket to the body following the marking you’ve traced earlier. Edgestitch to the fold and sewing the corner triangles.
Finished Pocket, View B.
Repeat the steps to make and attach the other pocket.
Tomorrow for View A we are going to create the belt loops, attach the skirt and make the sash. We’re nearly there!
* Win a new Oliver + S sewing pattern of your choice, courtesy of Oliver + S. (4 winners, See the selection at Sew,Mama,Sew! & Badskirt.)
* Win a pack of 12 fat quarters from the new City Weekend fabric collection by Liesl Gibson for Moda, courtesy of Sew,Mama,Sew! (3 winners)
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