Jen Carlton Bailly is back today with a fun, new tutorial (remember the His + Hers Pillows?!). Jen’s iPad Case Tutorial gives you two handle options and a fresh, new look for spring! Learn more about Jen in her introduction and let us know if you make the case!
Every spring– okay every season– I want a change… Something new. This usually comes in the form of a new bag. They are quick and easy and give me a little lift.
Since spring is around the corner (even though it snowed today in Portland, Oregon!) I thought my iPad needed a cute new case. As a bonus, I also made one for my husband that was a little manlier than one with a wristlet!
- Outside fabric cut to 21 ½ by 11 ½ inches (I used Echino-something– home décor weight is best)
- Inside fabric cut to 21 ½ by 11 ½ inches (I used flannel to help protect the screen)
- Outside pocket fabric cut to 7 ½ by 4 ½ inches
- Inside pocket of fabric cut to 7 ½ by 6 ½ inches
- Fusible heavy-weight interfacing (I used Peltex 71F) cut to the following sizes:
- 4 ½ by 11 inches
- 8 by 11 inches
- 7 ½ by 11 inches
- 16 inches of 1 inch webbing (sub cut to 14 inches)
- One 1 inch d-ring
- One 1 inch swivel hook
- 4 inches of sew in Velcro (sub cut to 2 inches)
- Point turner
- Marking Pen
- Liquid Stitch
- Lighter for melting webbing
Step One: Making the Pocket
- Line the top raw edges-right sides together of the pocket fabric.
- Stitch ¼ seam.
- Press open the seam.
- Top stitch 1/8th inch on either side of the seam (see photo above).
- Fold the fabric with right sides together matching raw edges.
- Stitch the side and bottom using ¼ inch seam. Leave a small opening at the bottom of the pocket for turning it out.
- Clip the corners at an angle being careful not to cut into the seam.
- Turn out.
- Use a point turner to poke out the corners.
- Iron flat, tucking in the raw edges of the space you left for turning out.
Step Two: Attaching the pocket
- Orient the fabric wrong side facing you so that the bottom folds up to the 8 inch mark (see photo above).
- Place your completed pocket centered 1 inch up from the bottom.
- Pin in place.
- Top stitch 1/8th inch around the sides and bottom.
Step Three: Applying the Interfacing
- Turn your fabric wrong side facing you; make sure you are on your ironing surface.
- Layout your interfacing beginning with the 4 ½ inch piece; center it leaving a ¼ inch on each side and a 1/2 inch from the top.
- Do the same with the 8 inch piece leaving a ¼ inch gap between your first piece.
- End with the 7 ½ inch piece again leaving a ¼ inch gap. You should now have ½ inch at the bottom as you do at the top.
Step Four: Attach the D-Ring
- Using the 2 inch piece of webbing pass it through the d-ring, matching raw edges.
- With the d-ring facing in, sew the d-ring 1 inch down from the center using a scant ¼ inch seam. I sew over this several times to make sure it’s nice and sturdy.
Step Five: Attach the Lining
- With right sides together, match raw edges of the outside and lining fabric.
- Pin to hold in place.
- Using a marking pen, leave at least a 4 inch opening at the bottom. You will need it this wide in order to turn it out.
- Stitch around all edges with a ¼ inch seam. You will be sewing right up against the edge of the interfacing. Make sure not to sew on top of it.
- Back stitch a few times at each end of your opening so that it is secure and wont break open when turning it out.
- Clip the corners as you did with the pocket.
- Turn out. This is the hardest part of this case. Go slow, take your time, and remember it’s okay to bend and smooch the interfacing, you will be able to iron it flat again.
- Poke out your corners.
- Iron flat; take care to do this part well as the flatter you can get this, the better it will look when you top stitch.
Step Six: Top Stitching
- Top stitch the bottom of the bag using a 1/8th inch seam allowance.
- Tip: Increase your stitch width when you are top stitching or going through multiple layers. I usually sew at 2.0 and increased to 3 here.
- Fold the bottom of the bag up; it should naturally fold at the right place due to the “hinges” we put in with the ¼ inch spacing with the interfacing.
- Pin in place.
- Starting at the bottom topstitch a 1/8 inch all the way around to the other side of the bag.
- Go slow and go very slow when you come to the webbing. You are now going through six layers and slow is best!
- You can also back stitch several times at the hinge to make sure it’s secure.
Step Seven: Attach the Velcro
Normally I sew my Velcro on, but lately I’ve been really enjoying using Liquid Stitch. It helps me be a little more adventurous as to where I put my closure, as I don’t have to figure that out until the end. In this case I decided that either side of the pocket would be best.
- Measuring 1 inch down and 1 ½ inches from the side, place a mark with your marking pen.
- Place one side of your Velcro on the outside of that mark.
- Place the other side of the Velcro on either side of the pocket lining up the top of the Velcro with the top of the pocket.
- Glue in place following the direction on the bottle.
Step Eight: Make the Wrist Strap
If you prefer a fabric strap you can follow this tutorial here. I use webbing because I like that it doesn’t show dirt as fast and the contrast is nice.
- Using a lighter, melt the edges of the strap. This prevents fraying. DON’T TOUCH, it’s hot!
- Using your 14 inch strap, feed you swivel hook through.
- Overlap the ends by ½ inch and stitch in place at both ends.
- Move your edge that you just sewed towards the swivel clip .
- Pinch closed and sew down (see photos below).
Step Nine: Attach and Enjoy!
- Attach your strap to your bag.
- Insert iPad.
- You now have a new case.
- Follow step 1 and 2 above.
- Before adding the interfacing attach a 7 by 3 inch strap of leather or vinyl (found at my local fabric store in the scrap bins) 9½ from the bottom of the fabric.
- Follow the rest of the steps omitting the d-ring and wristlet strap.
Note: This shows no pocket in the front.
This style makes it easy to slip your hand in the strap and carry without losing your grip!