Designer Alyssa Lichner of Pile o’ Fabric is back for the final post in our Modern BOM series. We know some of you have been eagerly waiting for this post! Today Alyssa shows you how she finished her quilt, including tips for binding, quilting and more. We can’t wait to see your quilts. The extra-large blocks in our second Modern BOM make such an impact when placed together in the final quilt!
If you’re not done with your blocks (or if you haven’t started yet) feel free to jump and sew along any time. Here are our block links:
- “Pandora’s Box”
- “The Pieces”
- “Hour by Hour”
- “March Up From Here”
- “Stained Glass”
- “Like Rain”
- Yardage Info
Don’t forget to visit the BOM2 Flickr group to add your blocks and final quilt!
Modern BOM 2 // Finishing Your Quilt
It’s time to get all your Modern BOM 2 blocks together and finish the quilt! Before I give you all the details of how to finish your quilt I’d like to show you my final quilt.
I decided I wanted to assemble my blocks to make a twin size quilt. I used fairly wide sashing and borders. The finished quilt measures 61” x 90”.
For the backing I used Kona Curry and Kona Azure to make two stripes surrounded by Kona Charcoal negative space.
I used 40wt Aurifil thread for the quilting. I kept a medium grey (#2625) in my bobbin the entire time and switched out the top thread to match each fabric I was quilting (#2132, #2835, #2630, and #2312).
- Charcoal Backing Negative Space – 5 ½ yards
- Curry Backing Stripe – ½ yard
- Azure Backing Stripe – ½ yard
- Charcoal Sashing and Borders – 2 1/3 yards
- Charcoal Binding – 2/3 yard or (8) 2.5” strips
Cutting the Pieces:
To make a 61” x 90” quilt you will need 2 1/3 yard of Charcoal sashing and border fabric. Sashing and border strips need to be cut by the length of fabric (LOF) instead of the typical width of fabric (WOF). The length of fabric refers to the threads in fabric which run the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvage. Lengthwise grain of fabric has the least amount of stretch, so it is best to cut on the length of fabric for quilt borders and sashing to prevent warping, slanting or bowing.
Take your 2+ yards of fabric and refold by length of fabric so that the selvages are on both sides (as shown in the above right). Trim off the selvages to prepare for cutting.
- Cut (3) 5.5” x LOF strips
- Sub-cut one strip into (3) 5.5” x 24.5” pieces label (E)
- Sub-cut remaining two strips into (2) 5.5” x 53.5” pieces label (F)
- Cut (4) 4.5” x LOF strips
- Sub-cut two strips into (2) 4.5” x 82.5” strips label (G)
- Sub-cut remaining strips into (2) 4.5” x 61.5” strips label (H)
Cutting the Backing Fabrics:
I always make sure my backings are at least 8” bigger than my quilt top so that there is more than enough room for shrinkage when quilting. My backing measured 69” x 98”.
From your 5 ½ yards of Charcoal backing fabric cut:
- (1) 98” x 42.25” label piece (A)
- (1) 98” x 17.25” label piece (D)
From your ½ yard of Azure backing fabric cut:
- (1) 5.5” x 43.25”
- (1) 5.5” x 43.50”
- (1) 5.5” x 12.25”
Piece these three strips together to create a 5.5” x 98” Azure strip of fabric label piece (B).
From your ½ yard of Curry backing fabric cut:
- (1) 5.5” x 43.25”
- (1) 5.5” x 43.50”
- (1) 5.5” x 12.25”
Piece these three strips together to create a 5.5” x 98” Curry strip of fabric label piece (C).
Quilt Top Layout
Quilt Back Layout
Putting It All Together
Trim the Blocks:
When I went to check my block sizes it occurred to me that on a few lessons I had you trim your blocks to 25” and others 24.5”. You will need to make sure to trim all the blocks down to 24.5” square before you begin piecing the quilt top.
Piecing the Quilt Top:
Piece the quilt top together using the diagram above as a guide for piecing. Piece block one to an (E) strip, then to block 2, and press seams open. Repeat for all three rows. Then piece each row to an (F) strip and press the seams open. Piece the block section to the side borders (G) and then the top borders (H). Press all the seams open.
Piecing the Quilt Back:
Piece (A) to (B) to (C) to (D), then press the seams open.
Basting Your Quilt:
Baste your quilt with your preferred method to prepare for quilting.
Quilting Your Quilt:
As I said above I used 40wt Aurifil thread for the quilting. I kept a medium grey (#2625) in my bobbin the entire time and switched out the top thread to match each fabric I was quilting (#2132, #2835, #2630, and #2312). Tip: Using a different thread color on top will only work if the thread on top is about the same darkness as the bobbin thread. You never want the bobbin thread to be to much darker than the top thread or it will be visible on top.
First you will quilt your blocks, and then finish by quilting your sashing and borders. With a walking foot, stitch in the ditch around each block.
For the “Pandora’s Box” block I used free motion quilting and quilted a spiral in the center of the circle, pebbles in the innermost block, ovals, loop-de-loops and ¼” straight lines.
For the “Like Rain” block I marked lines in the Charcoal negative space of my block with a chalk pencil and ruler then used my walking foot to quilt on the chalk lines. Then I switched to free motion quilting wavy lines on each colored stripe.
For “The Pieces” block I used free motion quilting to quilt a geometrical spiral. I started in the center of each shape and spiraled out echoing the triangular shape until it was filled (I left all of the white pieces on the entire quilt unquilted).
For the “Stained Glass” block I used free motion quilting to quilt “organic” straight lines about ¼” apart. I did not mark theses lines, just eyeballed it; hence the “organic.”
For the “Up From Here” block I used my walking foot with a 1” guide and quilted straight lines one inch apart in an L shape across the block.
For the “Hour by Hour” block I first marked the center of each circle with two smaller circles. Then using free motion quilting I quilted on my markings and filled the donut shape with wavy lines. Next I filled the space around the circles with straight lines.
For the sashing and borders I first marked a 2” border in the center of each piece. With my walking foot I quilted on those markings and then using free motion quilting I filled the space with wavy lines, on all sashings and borders.
Binding Your Quilt:
For the twin size you will need (8) 2.5” strips of fabric. Finish your quilt using your favorite binding technique or you can follow my method for binding here.
Enjoy finishing your BOM quilts and be sure to share lots of pictures in the BOM2 Flickr group. Thank you so much for quilting along with me this year! Happy Quilting!