Beth from 110 Creations shows you how to draft a pattern for this Reversible Cozy Hood for Kids. Keep the family warm through polar vortex conditions and a windy spring! Learn more about Beth in her introduction, and let us know if you make a hood with a link in the comments.
Hello, everyone! My name is Beth and I blog over at 110 Creations. I love sewing clothes for my whole family, and in this extra-cold winter we’ve been having, staying warm is a big priority! But keeping track of all those tiny toddler mittens, scarves and hats is frustrating. So why not sew something that functions as both a hat AND a scarf? Plus it’s reversible!
There are two parts to this project. First, we’ll draft the pattern. Second, we’ll sew up the hood. To draft the pattern, you’ll need the following:
- A hood which fits your youngster (on a coat or hoodie)
- T-shirt that fits your child
- Large sheet of paper
- Ruler (I used a large design ruler from Dritz)
- Pencil and markers
- Paper scissors
- Seam gauge
To sew the hood, you will need:
- Your pattern from Step 1
- Knit (stretchy) fabric, either 1 yard or 2 half yard pieces
- Fabric scissors
- Marking tool
- Sewing machine*
*You can use a serger, but the hood contains curves and sharp angles, which can be hard to control with a serger. I tried both methods and a sewing machine yields much greater accuracy.
Let’s start with drafting your pattern. First, lay the hood down in the center of your large piece of paper. Make sure there is room (at least a half inch) above the hood, and room below (about 5 inches). Trace around the hood with a pencil. You want to trace the front portion (where the face looks out) and the back (behind the head).
No need to be completely exact here. Just get the basic shape down. You may have some wobbly places (I did!). Next, take a marker and your ruler, and “true” the pattern. This means taking your wobbly lines and making them look pretty. Use your ruler to draw a completely straight vertical line in the front. Work slowly to draw an even curve in the back.
After you have a better-looking hood shape, grab the t-shirt. You’ll want to lay it down flat on the paper, under the hood shape, with the center-front and center-back matching up with the hood. See the photo below, it makes more sense in a picture!
Take your ruler and lay it down flat on top of the t-shirt. It should be perpendicular to the vertical line of the hood. It should cross over the t-shirt in the middle of the armhole.
Sketch in the perpendicular line using the ruler.
Next, you will want to draw the angled lines in the front and back of the hood. Use your ruler to draw a line from the bottom of the vertical line, to meet with the perpendicular line. You should leave some space between the line and the front of the t-shirt (see photo). This doesn’t have to be exact, basically you want your child to have some room to move around.
Repeat the same for the back.
Go back over the pencil lines with your marker, making sure your lines are straight and not wobbly. Use your ruler, that’s what it’s for!
Now you’re going to add seam allowances. I prefer a ½” seam allowance on knits. If your fabric is particularly stretchy, and you’re using a sewing machine (instead of a serger) then you may want a larger seam allowance. Use your seam gauge to measure ½” away from your marker lines. Sketch these in with pencil.
When it comes to the angles, I find it’s easiest to sketch until the lines intersect.
Draw the seam allowance around the whole hood using a marker.
Write in the name of the pattern, the seam allowance amount, and the directions for cutting. Using your paper scissors, cut out the pattern.
Congratulations, you drafted a pattern! Not so scary, huh? Now choose your fabrics for sewing up the reversible hood. Knit fabrics like jersey work best, since they have natural stretch. If you want to use two different fabrics for the full reversible effect, make sure that they at least have similar stretch capabilities. Gather up the rest of your sewing supplies, and let’s sew!
The stretch of your fabric should go left to right across the hood. Lay down your pattern piece on the wrong side of a single layer of fabric. Cut one piece, then flip your pattern and cut another piece.
Alternately, you can fold your fabric in double thickness (wrong sides together) and cut one.
You will cut two of each fabric, or four total if you’re using one fabric for the whole hood.
Wrong sides together, pin the hood along the back (behind the head) and the front chest area. Sew these sections together using the seam allowance that you included in your pattern. I use a regular straight stitch and had no problems getting it over my daughter’s head.
Repeat for the other hood. Grab your seam gauge again, and turn up the bottom portion of the hoods ½” (or whatever amount you added). Press firmly with an iron.
You may have some trouble in the pointed sections (the front chest and back). Finger-press the seam allowances open, then fold them up, then turn up the hem. Follow the steps in these photos:
Baste your hems in place with a long straight stitch. If you’re having trouble with curling, I like to dab a bit of glue on the fabric to hold it in place. Only use the glue trick if your fabric is washable.
After your hems are basted in place, take your scissors and snip into the angle behind the head.
Time to sew the two hoods together! Put one hood inside the other, so that they have right-sides facing.
Pin them together around the opening for the face, matching raw edges. This is where you’ll be sewing. Make sure to change your stitch length back from basting earlier.
The bottom of the face opening (under the chin) can be a bit tricky. It helps to sew in a slight curve or U shape (see photo). I’ve drawn the shape on with chalk here:
And here is the completed stitching in that area:
Before turning the hoods right-side out, clip into the seam allowance (but not through your stitching) in the bottom portion, under the chin.
Tidy up your seam allowances and then turn it right-side out!
We will now sew the hems together. Line the hems up all the way around the bottom of the hood.
Sew the two layers together, making sure you’re catching both of them evenly and they are not shifting.
Remove the basting stitches. Remember that there are basting stitches in each hood piece. In this photo, the long stitches are the basting stitches.
I decided to sew the hems twice to be extra-sure that I had secured the layers.
And you’re done! Put it on a squirmy kid and enjoy!
Bonus: For an even faster project, consider using an old sweater and upcycling for a one-layer hood!
Use the already-finished bottom of the sweater as the hem, and you’ll have a new hood in no time! If your sweater has a design on the front only, then take it into account that the design will only feature on one side of the hood.
To finish the opening for the face, turn the fabric back and sew a ½” hem (clip into the seam allowances to help it fold back more easily).
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial for a Reversible Hood for kids. I’d love to see your version if you sew one up. (And by the way, there’s no reason why you can’t make one of these for an adult!). Comment here with your links, or visit me at 110 Creations.