Amy Butler Sophia Carry-All Tips and Tricks

Ok, I promised that I would collect all the links for Sophia Tips in one place so that you all could use them too.  I have to reiterate that I WOULD NOT have been able to sew this bag without the knowledge shared by these people.  Also, I'm definitely a beginner, so please don't think that you have to have years of experience to do this bag!  Or that you have to have a really expensive machine.  Mine is a Janome Sew Precise, and the only trouble I had with it was fitting the layers under the foot.  It sewed through them just fine.

Here's where I learned to make a purse zipper the color that I wanted:
http://corvidarium.blogspot.com/2008/06/making-purse-zipper-tutorial.html

Here's where I learned to make continuous bias tape for the piping (very useful, and awesome!):
http://prettyjanebackstage.blogspot.com/2008/10/continuous-bias-tape-tutorial.html

Here's where I learned how to solve the false bottom issue:
http://www.joleo.co.uk/todayweare/?p=272
http://www.joleo.co.uk/article/176/piping-heaven
http://www.joleo.co.uk/article/177/baste-pin-baste-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love-zips

Actually, Joleo's blog was just helpful in general for this bag.

This one was great inspiration, and where I decided I should use something sturdier in the side panels for interfacing:
http://makemestudio.blogspot.com/search/label/Sophia%20Carry-All

How to trim your timtex (or equivalent) to keep it out of your seam allowances (this is crucial):
http://disdressed.blogspot.com/2007/03/that-timtex-thing.html

Tip to eliminate the bottom piping and just general stuff:
http://www.stacysews.com/projects/amy_butlers_sophia_carry-all/

Sophia Bag discussion with lots of tips:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/698027@N21/discuss/72157604204443581/

More info from makemestudio on flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24225734@N04/3427864161/

There's one more site that had some step by step photos of the beginning of the process, when I find it, I'll post it.

And here's my tips:

I used a walking foot almost exclusively for this project.  Even on the zipper, which was sort of difficult to wiggle the zipper pulls by, but it worked.  I also didn't do that exactly the way Amy Butler wrote that part, I didn't take it out of the machine, just left the needle down and worked it by.

I had a layer of fusible light/med weight interfacing, then a layer of fusible fleece, then a layer of Peltex extra firm (seam allowances trimmed out) then I fused that to everything with another layer of light/med weight fusible interfacing.  Sounds like a lot, but it really wasn't that bad.

I would mark where you want to sew.  There are a lot of layers, especially when sewing the panels to the top, and you can't always tell where your piping is.  I had to rip mine out a couple times because I sewed through it.

I didn't lengthen my straps, but I might next time.

Make your lining smaller.  Trust me.  I was afraid to do it, but ended up taking it out and trimming it down and sewing it again.  You won't be disappointed.  I trimmed a good half inch on all of it.  I wouldn't recommend do that to the bottom panel though, you might need the extra, and you can trim it later.

Pin your top panel in the middle first, then down each side when attaching the panels.  More than likely you'll have extra left over, and it's not worth easing it, because it will probably pucker.  I just trimmed the ends once it was sewn.

I used upholstery tacks bent over as my purse feet.  Don't do it.  It turned out ok, but it was a huge pain in the butt, and I actually ripped a little hole in the bottom in the process.

I machine sewed the bottom panel on both long sides, but ended up hand sewing the short ends to make it look right.  Not the best way, but it worked for me.

I used fusible fleece on my lining to give it a little extra stiffness, so it wasn't flopping around everywhere.  I also divided one side into two pockets and the other side into three.

Ok, that's it.  I know this is a mammoth post.  The bag is totally worth it.  I can't wait to make the Weekender.  Enjoy everybody, and happy Sophia sewing!

Wow!  Thanks so much for taking the time to put all this together.  I'm sure many of us will be using this post for future reference.