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Set-in sleeves and deep armhole curves
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Set-in sleeves and deep armhole curves
oohisay
Newbie
Posts: 1
Set-in sleeves and deep armhole curves
on: February 25, 2010, 07:04:50 PM
Hi there,
I feel a bit sheepish asking a set-in sleeve question (I can hear the collective groan!). Here's the thing: I have spent the last month trying to make a simple shirt, yet I cannot get the sleeves right. I have tried both commercial patterns (really bad experience) and my own drafted patterns. I followed the instructions in McCunn's pattern making book to draft both a shirt and a corresponding sleeve. From a mathematical perspective, everything should be a-okay. But my problem with the sleeve is that, because I have a full bust, but otherwise small shoulders and waist, the armscye curve is very deep. Even though the lengths of both the front armscye and the front half of the sleeve match (plus a bit of ease), I can never get the thing sewn together properly.* I have tried every trick (and yes I have done everything that the SMS set-in sleeve tutorial suggested!), but I always end up with puckers/pleats on the shirt front. I swear I have read more about sleeves in the last few weeks than I ever thought possible. When I look at the pattern pieces I am reminded of the two parts of a princess seam, and then I think, would clipping the SA as one does for a princess seam help or hinder me? Or is there some other trick I can use? Any advice would be appreciated.
*I should add that I made a "mini" shirt out of the half-scale patterns for the standard bodice and sleeve contained in the patternmaking book and sewed that together no problem. So, I know I can sew a sleeve in, just not the sleeve that fits me!
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