Nele from spiegelstiksels makes gorgeous clothes for her two sons, two daughters and for her husband. Today she shows you how to make a flap pocket, similar to a welt pocket. Learn more about Nele in her introduction and be sure to hop over to spiegelstiksels to see her latest, beautiful dresses, shirts and more.

In this tutorial we are making a flap pocket. This is a pocket that looks very nice on a jacket. The construction of a flap pocket is very similar to the construction of a welt pocket.

Before we get started, let’s take a look at the pattern pieces. (Download the PDF guide.)

  • There are two pieces of fabric for the flap. The pattern piece for the lining is 4 mm smaller in width and 2 mm smaller in height.
  • One piece will be the understrip of the pocket and facing of the pocket lining in one.
  • One piece of fabric is for the facing of the pocket bag; this is what you see when you lift the flap of the pocket.
  • Of course there are the pocket lining and the pocket bag as well.
  • Interfacing is ironed on the flap lining and a piece of interfacing is also used on the garment in the area on which the pocket will be placed.

Of course we wouldn’t usually use 3 different fabrics. This is only to make sure you can clearly see where every piece is coming.

We cut a paper template of the flap lining to help us make a perfect curve. Using the template, we sew over the stitching line on the flap lining interfacing.

Stitch the flap, being sure to ease the difference. Trim the corners, and trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn and press. We can see now that the smaller lining makes the seam line come to the back side of the flap.

Edgestitch if desired.

Use your template to mark the stitching line on the back of the flap.

Fuse a piece of interfacing to the back side of your fabric where you want your pocket. The interfacing is at least 2 cm wider than the pocket opening. Mark the following lines on your fabric:

  • The upper line is the stitching line for the flap.
  • The lower line is a help line to meet the fold of your pocket strip (scroll down). The distance between the 2 lines is 1.5cm.
  • The vertical lines are the width of the flap.

    Pin your flap into place and sew on the line. Make sure your first and last stitch come over the edge of the flap.

    Fold the strip at 2 cm from the edge. The larger half is the facing for the pocket lining and lays on top.

    The second horizontal line is a helping line. Since the pocket opening will be 1 cm we place the strip to meet this helping line and sew it at 5 mm from the edge of the strip. Be sure the stitching is parallel and that the second line is 1 stitch shorter at each side (notice that this is a difference with the double welt pocket).

    Now it’s time to cut in the opening of the pocket. At both edges you end with making little triangles. Cut until right next to your first and last stitch.

    Pull your fabrics through the opening and give it a nice press.

    Attach the bag lining to the facing.

    Attach the facing of the pocket bag to the pocket bag. We do this by folding the pocket bag around the facing and sewing over the fold at 5 mm.

    We can see on the image that the facing is now caught in this stitching.

    Pin the pocket bag to the lining.

    Turn your fabric with the right side up. Now flip away the upper part and stitch the pocket bag to the edge of the flap as close possible to the pocket opening.

    Lay everything flat again and now flip the other parts of the fabric so you can sew around the pocket, attaching the pocket bag to the pocket lining; be sure you catch those little triangles in your stitching.

    It is now done! On this image we see the finished flap pocket:

    This is what we see on the inside of the pocket and we can clearly see the different facings:

    Here is the finished pocket on a blazer I made for my daughter: