Erin from Sew at Home Mummy designed this modern, quilted sewing machine cover to protect your machine and help it look extra-nice when not in use! Learn more about Erin’s designs at Sew at Home Mummy and in her introduction.

We’re gearheads too! We like to create with our sewing machines like men enjoy playing with their cars. And like any high performance machine, our babies need protection against their worst enemy… Dust! So why not cover up in style with this super mod gear and shaft-themed machine cover?!

This cover fits machines up to 19.5” L x 13” H x 9.5” W, although there is room within the pattern/instructions to increase the size of finished product by up to 1” in each direction comfortably.


  • Template
  • Coordinating Thread
  • Ruler + tape measure
  • Safety Pins
  • Fabric marker (erasable, for drawing quilting line guides if desired)
  • ¼” presser foot
  • Walking foot

Fabric Supplies:

Grey fabric (1.5 yards):

  • End pieces: (2) of 12” x 16”
  • Main body: (1) of 12” x 36.5”
  • (12) rectangles 3.5” x 2”
  • (28) squares 2.0” x 2.0”
  • (1) rectangle 3.5” x 4.5”
  • (1) rectangle 6.5” x 3.5”

Colored (Blue/Green) Fabrics (~ ½ yard):

  • (6) rectangles 1.5” x 3.5” (“shafts”)
  • (7) rectangles 6.5” x 4.5” (“gears”)
  • Binding strips approx 70” x 2.25” (create your own or purchase double fold bias tape binding)

Lining Fabric (1 yard):

  • End pieces: (2) of 12” x 16”
  • Main body: (1) of 20.5” x 36.5”

Pellon Fusible Featherweight (1.75 yards, 20” wide):

  • End pieces: (2) of 12” x 16”
  • Main body: (1) of 20.5” x 36.5”

Low-Loft Batting:

  • End pieces: (2) of 12” x 16”
  • Main body: (1) of 20.5” x 36.5”

Please note: Use an exact ¼” seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Prepare your lining pieces by fusing the featherweight interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric pieces, using the manufacturer’s instructions.

2. Time to sew your blocks. I chose multiple shades of blues and greens so that I could create a gradation effect with my “gear” blocks, with each successive “gear” and “shaft” being lighter than the last. I made a few more blocks than necessary in my mock up so that I could play with the blocks and use the color combination I liked the most. This block would also look really good with a smaller sized or dense print. Ideally you’ll want the fabrics in each block to “blend” well with the seams of the next.

3. Using a fabric marker, draw a diagonal line across each of the 2” x 2” blocks, and then align them in each corner of your colored/patterned rectangles, matching edges, like this:

4. Sew across the lines you’ve drawn on each of the four squares in each corner. Trim the excess fabric, ¼” from the seam line, like this:

5. Press the grey pieces back, pressing the seam to the dark fabric (in this case, for every block I pressed the seam to the grey each time). Ta-DA! Your “gear” portions of the block sets are done!

6. Now onto the “shafts.” Using a ¼” seam allowance, attach a grey (3.5” x 2”) rectangle to each side of the colored/patterned (1.5” x 3.5”) rectangles as shown. Press seams towards the darker color (in my case, I pressed them to the grey every time.)

7. Time to have a bit of fun! Lay out your “gears” and “shafts” in two lines– with four “gears” and “shafts” in one line, three “gears” and “shafts” in another– in an order that’s pleasing to you. If you’ve made more than enough blocks, play with which ones look better together.

8. Once you’ve decided on an order to your blocks, sew all of the pieces together in two long strips, alternating a “gear” block with a “shaft” block every time. When sewing the two together, try to align the center of the “gear” block with the center of the “shaft” block, like this:

Press your seams open:

Continue creating your two columns, with four of each block in one, and three of each block in another.

9. To the top end of your shorter column, sew (using a ¼” seam allowance) grey 3.5” x 4.5” rectangle. To the bottom end of your shorter column, sew grey 6.5” x 4.5” rectangle. You’ve now created a column the same length as the other.

10. Sew your two columns together, pinning at matching seams. Press long seam open.

11. Attach grey 12” x 36.5” rectangle to the right side of the block sets. Press long seam open. This is your MAIN BODY PIECE.

12. Stack, in order:
a. Lining (fusible facing UP, right side of fabric facing DOWN)
b. Batting
c. MAIN BODY PIECE (right side facing UP)

13. Using safety pins, secure the three layers together, pinning about every 4 inches. (Pictured here is a ‘walking’ foot, as mentioned in the supply list above; you’ll need one of these to ensure an even feed of the multiple layers as you sew them together.)

14. Repeat for end pieces (12” x 16”), stacking in the following order:
a. Lining (fusible facing UP, right side of fabric facing DOWN)
b. Batting
c. Grey rectangle

15. Pin layers together, again every 4”, with safety pins.

16. Now it’s time to quilt! Starting from the middle of your stacked ‘sandwich’ and working your way out, sew lines in any pattern or direction. Remove pins as you go and remember, have fun with it! Here is the back of my main body piece (you can see the stitch lines much better on the white); I used a coordinating high-sheen 40 wt polyester thread in a Caribbean blue to quilt the pieces. On the ends I sewed a diagonal line pattern on one side, and on the other end piece a straight line pattern (pictured). The possibilities are endless; have fun with it!

17. Now, measure the height of your machine at its highest point. Don’t forget to include the spool pegs if you have them projecting from the top of your machine. Add 1” to this measurement. Remember this number!

18. On the template supplied, measure from the top of the curve on the template to the number you calculated in #17 above and mark the template. Draw a line straight across the bottom of the template and trim here. *If your machine is higher than the length of the template, add paper to the bottom to extend template accordingly.

19. Using your tape measure, measure the distance around the template (excluding the straight-line, or bottom, portion of the template). Add 1.5” to this number. Note this number somewhere. (For me, this number was 30” + 1.5” = 31.5”.)

20. Pin your (adjusted) template on your quilted end pieces and cut around pattern.

21. Measure the length of the front of your machine; be sure to include the hand wheel in your measurement. Add 1.5” to this measurement. For me, this measurement was 18”.
a. For me: 18” + 1.5” = 19.5”
b. Trim the WIDTH (shorter side) of MAIN BODY PIECE to this calculation (for me 19.5”).
c. Trim the LENGTH (longer side) of your front piece to the calculation in #19 above.
d. So, with my numbers, I cut my main body piece to: 19.5” x 31.5”

22. Finish curved portions of end pieces and long sides of body piece with a zig-zag stitch.

23. Fold your end pieces and main body piece in half lengthwise and mark center fold with a pin.

24. Place end piece over body piece, right sides together, aligning center-marking pins; pin unfinished edges together. Sew end to body piece using a 3/8” seam. Repeat for other end piece.

25. You’ll notice that once your main body piece is sewn to the ends the ends are a bit shorter than the main body. I did this on purpose to account for any inaccuracy that may have occurred while sewing the curved seam. Now, we’ll trim up the edges so they match by laying one body side flat on the table and aligning your ruler with the side seams. Trim each side.

26. Turn machine cover right side out. Push out and straighten seams. Pin binding to unfinished edge. Sew in place with a straight or zig-zag stitch. Note on binding: If you want to make your own, I used 2.25” strips about 70” long in a complementing blue color pressed into a double fold. If you don’t want to make your own binding you can pick up some double-fold bias tape binding.

You’re done! Stand back and admire your beautiful new cover.